by Christopher Armanini of Full Send K9
 In the world of dog training, the term "Forced Fetch" often triggers a negative response, evoking concerns about harsh methods and unnecessary pressure on our furry companions. However, as a seasoned dog trainer, I've come to understand that there is no one-size-fits-all approach to teaching our canine friends new skills. Each dog is unique, and their learning process may vary widely. As responsible trainers, it is essential to have a diverse range of techniques at our disposal, enabling us to tailor our methods to suit individual dogs and their specific needs. In this pursuit, I have discovered a comprehensive and thoughtful approach called the NePoPo® unforced forced fetch, which breaks down the process into micro-components, setting the stage for a positive and successful training experience. By fostering engagement, understanding, and collaboration with our dogs, we aim to create a profound connection that inspires them to perform every task with genuine heart and soul.Â
First, let’s think about what we want our dogs to do: On command grasp any object we specify with their mouth, and maintain a firm hold on it until we give the cue to release it or deliver it directly to our hand. This multi-step process involves teaching them the retrieve, hold, and out commands, enabling them to perform the task with precision and reliability.Â
The initial step in the training process involves charging the dog on a clicker or marker word. In my case, I use the word "yes" as the marker, considering that my hands will be extensively involved throughout the training. In the video, you'll notice that instead of using a clicker or marker and hand feeding, I'm using a remote treat delivery system (in this case a Treat & Train), which allows the utilization of indirect rewards (a topic for a different article). Fundamentally it works the same way, you can hear the tone serving as the marker, but then the dog must turn around to get the treat from the device.
To create an optimal training environment, it is essential to have a training isolation table, bench, or wall where the dog can be back-tied, preferably at waist height. The advantage of using a table with sides is that it restricts the dog's energy and focus, ensuring a captive and attentive audience for the training sessions. This controlled setting helps to lay the foundation for effective learning and focused engagement.Â
After establishing the training area with the isolation table, the next crucial step is to acclimate the dog to this environment. It is essential to allow the dog to familiarize itself with the table and feel at ease in the training setting.Â
With the dog securely back-tied to a flat collar on the table, we encourage the dog to initiate the training process actively. Our goal is to create an "ACTIVE dog REACTIVE trainer" dynamic. In other words, we seek behavior from the dog that shows eagerness and enthusiasm, as if it is asking to participate in the training session. We look for signs of engagement and readiness from the dog, such as standing up, moving toward the edge of the table, and making eye contact with us. This behavior communicates the dog's interest in training and its desire to be involved in the learning process.Â
When we observe these proactive behaviors from the dog, we know it is ready and eager to start the training "game." It is this activity and initiative from the dog that draws us in, prompting us to begin the training session. By encouraging the dog's enthusiasm and receptiveness, we create a positive and interactive training environment that fosters an eager and cooperative learning attitude.Â
In the initial stages of the training process, our primary focus is to teach the dog to lay its muzzle into our open hand. We present the open hand in front of the dog and encourage it to place its muzzle directly into the hand. When the dog successfully performs this action, we promptly mark the behavior with a "yes."Â
Once the dog removes its muzzle from our hand to retrieve the reward, we reach for the reward from our pouch. It is crucial to note that we want the dog to remove its muzzle from our hand first, and then we reward it. This sequence is essential for shaping the "out" command, which will become clearer later in the training process.Â
If the dog does not immediately place its muzzle in our open hand, we use successful approximation. In other words, we mark and reinforce the behavior gradually until the dog consistently lays its muzzle in our hand. It is essential to avoid putting our hand directly under the dog's muzzle and marking the behavior. Instead, we want the dog to reach out actively and place its muzzle in our hand. This approach effectively shapes the behavior of retrieving an object and will be instrumental in later stages of the training.Â
Once the dog consistently lays its muzzle in our hand, we progress to building duration for the behavior. Our aim is to train the dog to maintain its muzzle in our hand until mark with a "yes." This is shaping the hold. We start by asking for a brief duration of one second, then gradually increase it to two seconds, then three, and so on. The key is to incrementally extend the duration, ensuring that the dog remains steady and does not remove its muzzle until we provide the marking cue.Â
As the dog becomes proficient in holding its muzzle for longer periods, we introduce a crucial aspect of the training—proofing the behavior in different hand positions. This step involves placing our hand to the right of the dog's head, then to the left of its head, and in lower positions on the right and left sides. The objective is to ensure that the dog can perform the behavior regardless of the hand's location. This proofing process strengthens the dog's understanding of the command, making the behavior more reliable and adaptable in various scenarios.Â
If, at any point during the training, the dog becomes disengaged, protests, or removes its muzzle before the marking cue, it is essential to handle the situation with patience and understanding.Â
In such instances, it is best to simply step away and avoid any verbal or physical corrections. By doing so, we employ the principle of negative punishment, where we remove the desired stimulus (our attention and the potential reward) when the dog exhibits undesirable behavior. Stepping away sends a clear message to the dog that its current actions are not meeting our expectations.Â
The objective is to encourage the dog to re-engage and display the active asking behavior that indicates its willingness to participate in the training. Once the dog checks back in, shows enthusiasm, and actively seeks to work with us again, we can resume the training process from where we left off.Â
The next stage of the training process involves introducing our second hand over the dog's muzzle while placing it in our open hand, as we did in the previous step. Once the dog accepts the presence of the second hand, we promptly mark the behavior and wait for the dog to remove its muzzle from both of our hands. Then, we reach for the reward to reinforce the behavior.Â
This step is crucial because we are now shaping both the retrieve and the out commands simultaneously. By reinforcing the dog's acceptance of the second hand and rewarding the release of its muzzle, we reinforce the behavior of retrieving and letting go of the object.Â
When the dog displays steady duration with his muzzle between both hands, we move on to the hold. In this step, we introduce the dog to accept our thumb and middle finger of the bottom hand in its mouth, positioned behind the canines. It is essential to ensure that the dog has finished teething before proceeding with this part of the training. Additionally, we must be cautious not to pinch the dog's lips on its teeth.Â
As in previous steps, we continue to build duration by gradually extending the time the dog keeps its muzzle between both our hands. However, if the dog does not accept the second hand or removes itself before the marking cue, it is essential to follow the negative punishment principle by stepping away. We allow the dog to initiate the process again by showing active engagement and asking to continue with the training.Â
Once the dog becomes steady and consistent in holding its muzzle between both hands, we progress to practicing the behavior in different positions. It is crucial to avoid going directly to the dog; instead, we want the dog to actively reach out and position its muzzle between both hands on its own. This approach reinforces the dog's understanding of the commands and encourages independent and reliable behavior, regardless of the hand's placement.Â
By having the dog accept our fingers in its mouth, we are able to mark the behavior when it applies steady pressure. The objective is to avoid any chattering or mouthing and instead focus on continuous and steady pressure.Â
Throughout this step, we gradually build the duration of the dog's ability to hold steady pressure on our fingers. We mark the behavior when the dog demonstrates consistent pressure application and only reward it when it removes its muzzle from our hands.Â